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-C- Painting Terms

Casein Paint- Water thinned paint with vehicle derived from milk.

Catalyst- An ingredient that speeds up a chemical reaction. Catalysts are sometimes used in two-component epoxy systems.

Cat Eye- Hole or holiday shaped like a cat’s eye, cratering.

Caulk- A flexible (semi-drying or slow-drying) mastic compound used to seal joints or fill crevices around windows, chimneys, etc., prior to or after painting.

Caulking Gun- A tool for expelling caulk from a tube. It enables a “bead” of material to be applied to cracks and seams.

Chalking- Loose powder forming on the surface of a paint after exposure to the elements.

Checking- A kind of paint failure in which many small cracks appear in the surface of the paint.

Coalescing- The flowing or melding together of emulsion particles when a latex paint dries.

Coating- A general term referring to any type of paint, stain, etc.

Coating System- Paint products used together to cover the same surface. The film may be the result of primer, undercoat and topcoat (also called finish coat).

Cohesion- The ability of a coating to hold together (the attraction of molecules within the coating).

Cold-Cracking- Cracking occurring at low temperatures.

Colorfast- Non-Fading.

Color Chip- A color sample usually consisting of a paint applied to a small piece of card (a chip).

Colorant- Colored pigment added in small proportions to prepared paints to tint them.

Color Washing- A technique used to build up layers of diluted paint to produce depth and textural interests.

Combing- A technique of pulling a toothed (comb) through wet paint.The comb can be made of a material such as: rubber, metal, leather, plastic or cardboard.

Combustible- Able to burn.

Consistency- Viscosity.

Coverage- The area over which a given amount of paint will spread and completely hide the surface. Coverage, also known as spreading rate, is normally expressed in square feet per gallon or in square metres per litre.

Cracking- Breaks in the paint film wide enough to expose the underlying surface.

Crackle Finish- Crackle finishes have an aged, weathered look, resembling cracked glass.

Crawling- Shrinking of paint to form uneven surface.

Crazing- Small interlacing cracks in the paint film.

Cross Spraying- Spraying first in one direction and second at right angles.

Curtaining- Sagging

Cutting-In- The brushing technique that is used when a clean, sharp edge is needed. Cutting-in is needed, for example, for a window sash (using a sash brush), the top of a wall where it meets the ceiling, and in areas that are hard to reach (especially when using a roller).

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-B- Painting Terms

Back Priming- Applying a coat of paint to the back of woodwork or exterior siding to prevent moisture from entering the wood and causing the grain to swell.

Barrier- Shielding or blocking device.

Base- Tint base.

Binder- Film-forming ingredient that binds the particles together in a paint.

Bituminous Coating- Coal tar or asphalt coating.

Blast Cleaning- Cleaning with propelled abrasives.

Bleeding- Discoloration of a freshly applied topcoat caused by underlying finish penetrating outward.

Blistering- The forming of bubbles or pimples on the painted surface. Blistering is caused by moisture in the wood, by paint having been applied before the previous coat was dry, and by excessive heat during or after application.

Block Coat- (Barrier coat or transition primer) – tie coat (adhesive) between non-compatible paints.

Blushing- A gloss film turning flat or a clear lacquer turning white. Blushing is usually caused by moisture condensation during the drying process.

Body- The thickness or thinness of a liquid paint.

Boxing- Mixing paint by pouring from one container to another several times to ensure thorough mixing.

Breathe- Permit the passage of moisture vapor through a paint film without causing blistering, cracking or peeling.

Bristle Brush- A paint brush with filaments made up of animal hair strands usually hog hair. Bristle brushes are used for alkyd paint.

Build- Apparent thickness or depth of the paint after drying.

Burnishing- Shiny or lustrous spots on a paint surface caused by rubbing.

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-A- Painting Terms

Abrasion Resistance– Resistance to being worn away by rubbing or friction. Abrasion resistance is a matter of toughness, rather than hardness. It is a necessary quality for floor finishes, enamels and varnishes.

Accelerator- Catalyst; a material which accelerates the hardening of a certain coating.

Acetone- Dimethyl ketone; solvent.

Acoustic Paint- Paint which absorbs or deadens sound.

Acrylic-  A synthetic resin widely used as a latex to produce paints with good color and color retention. Acrylic latex paints may be thinned and cleaned up with water. Breeze interior and exterior latex paints in flat, eggshell and semi-gloss are all based on pure acrylic emulsions.

Activator- Catalyst or curing agent.

Adhesion- The degree of attachment between a coating film and the underlying paint or other material.

Aerosol Use of compressed gas to spray the product from its container.

Aging- Remaining undisturbed.

Agitator- Stirrer; mixer.

Air Bubble- Dry bubble in paint film caused by entrapped air.

Air Drying- Dries by oxidation or evaporative drying by simple exposure to air without heat or catalyst.

Airless Spraying- Spraying without atomizing air, using hydraulic pressure.

Alkali- A substance such as lye, soda or lime that can be highly destructive to paint films.

Alkyd-  A synthetic resin widely used in the manufacture of paints and varnishes. Alkyd paint must be thinned and cleaned up with solvent or paint thinner. The terms alkyd paint and oil-based paint are generally used interchangeably.

Alligatoring- Paint film cracking that makes the surface look like alligator skin.

Aluminum paint- A paint that includes aluminum particles and gives a metallic finish when dried.

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Painting Hardboard / Masonite / Pressed Wood

Hardboard-Masonite/Pressed Wood. Made from chipped wood and reconstituted with resin (adhesive) under pressure. Available in interior and exterior grades with or without factory primer applied. Used extensively on exterior applications painted with a factory applied primer coat. ( Factory applied primers are intended for short term protection of the material while in transit and prior installation. They should not be considered a full prime coat prior to the application of field applied finishes.) Production materials and fabricating methods vary according to manufacturer and geographical locations of plant. Most West Coasts raw materials are composed of redwood and cedar (back of board dark brown) where Southern and Eastern varieties utilize yellow pine (light to medium gray). Each manufacture offers their own painting specifications, but the following will provide acceptable recommendations.

1.  NOT FACTORY PRIMED. This is seldom encountered for exterior work. Requires prompt protection with a full coat of oil/alkyd primer or a full coat of stain blocking latex primer. Finish with two coats of latex or oil type finish coat. On interior use, hardboard should be treated as unfinished wood. Some coarse “chipboards” require a filler coat if a completely smooth surface is desired.

2.  FACTORY PRIMED. Effective way of protecting the face and lap board siding during transit and during installation. All hardboard manufactures stress that pre-primed hard board must be finished before 90-120 day after exterior exposure. If finishing is delayed beyond that period, treat the exterior siding as though it were unprimed (i.e. requires an exterior primer and two finish coats). Failure to follow these precautions can cause premature delaminating (peeling) of the finish coat from the primer. Directions for application of siding (as listed on packages) should be followed, paying particular attention to vapor barrier instructions. Hardboard should be protected from the weather, as any water may cause stains that reappear after finish has been applied.

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Painting Plastics

Painting plastics can be simple and successful or it can be complex and a disaster. The reason for this is that “plastics” include a wide number of organic resin formulations and a wide range of processing methods. On molded products, mold release items (silicone’s, waxes and surface active agents) can cause adhesion problems. Some mold release items are paintable, but others will keep the coating from adhering. The best advice: follow the directions for painting the specific product from the manufacture. Often the plastic has a factory applied primer or finish coat. This simplifies the problem, as you are now painting paint and not the plastic, so proceed with normal good painting practice, either interior or exterior.

  If the manufacture advice in not available and the object has not been factory primed-what next? Oil, powder, dust or almost any contaminate can adversely affect adhesion of paint. Paint adheres better to roughened surfaces than smooth surfaces. Certain proprietary primers are touted for good adhesion to plastics. An acceptable procedure would be:

1. Wipe the surface with a cleaning solvent. The cleaner must be compatible with the plastic, as the wrong solvent can be damaging. Sometimes scrubbing with soap and water is an alternative. Try a sample in a inconspicuous location and observe results. (Avoid solvents that cause crazing, cracking or dissolve the plastic).

2.  Sanding with “wet or dry” abrasive does a good job of removing the gloss or roughing dense surfaces. This often removes “mold release agents” and gives paint a chance to adhere. This can be done in conjunction with detergent or solvent. Rinse well after sanding to remove dust or residue. Let dry.

3.  Depending on the type of exposure, apply a primer (some clear, some pigmented) that is recommended for adhesion to plastics or hard to coat surfaces.

4.  Finish with appropriate finish coat.

A sample should be prepared before doing the entire job.

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Painting Glass

Glass is very difficult to paint and, at best, should be considered a temporary solution. Glazed tile is often painted as a way of changing the color. Sandblasted glass, as opposed to smooth transparent glass, affords better adhesion to paint.

Painted glass often is subjected to heat shattering due to excessive absorption of heat by dark colors applied to glass and exposed to sunlight (i.e. showrooms). If painted, always coat the outside surface to minimize heat shattering.

Emulsa-Bond and XIM specifically claim adhesion (priming) on glass or tile, providing a “bonding coat” that can then be top coated with oil or latex products to extend the life of the coating.

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Painting Fiberglass

New fiberglass must be thoroughly cleaned and all mold, wax, oils and surface gloss must be removed. Scrub with household cleanser and rinse. Use a “wet or dry” abrasive sandpaper and sand to remove all gloss. Rinse thoroughly and wipe down with a mixture of one part alcohol to one part water and allow thorough drying prior to painting. A 100% Acrylic finish provides good results on normal household applications such as awnings, windbreaks, patio covers, room dividers, etc (flexible surfaces should not be painted).

Weathered fiberglass normally has lost its gloss and exhibits a rough exposed loose fiber surface. Follow the directions on “New Fiberglass” dispensing with the cleaner scrub unless the surface is oily. Sand sufficiently to remove the loose fibers rinse and let dry. Prime surface, then topcoat with a 100% Acrylic paint.

Previously painted fiberglass normally only requires cleaning to wash off excessive chalk, sanding glossy surfaces and feather sanding of any loose or flaking paint. Touch-up bare spots with the selected finish coat, let dry, and then finish as required.

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Painting Aluminum

A relatively easy substrate to finish if proper preparation is followed. Often inquires are made at a retail level on how to finish aluminum (i.e., trailers, siding, awning, storm sash, etc.) When finishing previously painted aluminum you are not coating aluminum you are coating paint. Be sure and follow proper surface preparation techniques and proceed as with any paint job. New aluminum surfaces will have a protective film from the factory which must be removed to insure proper adhesion. If this is raw (uncoated) aluminum it is recommended to clean and treat the surface using a chemical cleaning and etching solution. These type of products not only clean the aluminum but also provide a “conversion coating” that will promote greater adhesion of finish coats. Old aluminum surfaces may have oxidized and will require cleaning similar to new aluminum. A concentrated solution of Tri-Sodium Phosphate will remove oxidized salts from aged, bare aluminum. After any preparation solution, rinse thoroughly prior to painting.

  Follow the directions on the container making a special effort to rinse thoroughly with clear water to remove excess solutions or salts. Clean surfaces will “sheet” water while contaminated surfaces will cause water to “bead” . The clean surface may be coated using either oil or latex system.

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Painting Acoustical Material

Modern construction depends a great deal on acoustic materials as sound containment or sound control either in residential or commercial application. These materials are either mineral in nature or more recently have included synthetics as an economical material. There are many forms of these products available but the one thing they have in common is porosity and cavities that capture sound. In new installations, these products usually do not require a coating. The acoustical plaster is tinted to the final color before application and the ceiling panels are factory finished. Practically all on site finishing is limited to the repaint market.

  To repaint acoustical materials, the object is to retain the porosity and cavities (to keep the sound deadening properties) while applying a new, decorative coating. this is best accomplished with flat latex rather than a higher sheen product. Harder drying, low sheen to high gloss materials will reduce the efficiency of the sound reduction. The flat finishes will provide a more uniform appearance without amplifying the inherently inconsistent surfaces of acoustic materials.

  Acoustic plaster is best finished with airless spray. Using highly pigmented flat latex paint. Normally, this material is reduced with water to prevent bridging and give easy flow into the acoustic cavities. The reduced material is thin and may even be applied with H.V.L.P. spray equipment. Two coats are usually required and should be applied in opposite ( crisscross ) directions to eliminate shielded or shadowed appearance.

  Acoustical panels are rolled almost as easily as sprayed ( using a 1″ or 1 1/2″ nap synthetic roller ). Again, two coats are recommended, rolled in opposite directions. In most cases, washing the surface prior to application is not necessary or feasible due to the delicate nature of the plaster and porosity of the panels. If washing is desired, a TSP solution or laundry detergent is suggested. Any water stains should be sealed with pigmented white shellac ( available in aerosol containers ) or a high quality water based stain blocker prior to finish.

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Asbestos In Your Home

Asbestos In Your Home:

Asbestos disposal

This information will help you understand Asbestos: what it is, its health effects, where it is in your home, and what to do about it. Hard copies of the orginal document are available from the TSCA Hotline and the Asbestos Ombudsman. Note: EPA is currently revising the original document.

What Is Asbestos?

Asbestos is a mineral fiber. It can be positively identified only with a special type of microscope. There are several types of asbestos fibers. In the past, asbestos was added to a variety of products to strengthen them and to provide heat insulation and fire resistance.

How Can Asbestos Affect My Health?

From studies of people who were exposed to asbestos in factories and shipyards, we know that breathing high levels of asbestos fibers can lead to an increased risk of:

  • lung cancer;
  • mesothelioma, a cancer of the lining of the chest and the abdominal cavity; and
  • asbestosis, in which the lungs become scarred with fibrous tissue.

The risk of lung cancer and mesothelioma increases with the number of fibers inhaled. The risk of lung cancer from inhaling asbestos fibers is also greater if you smoke. People who get asbestosis have usually been exposed to high levels of asbestos for a long time. The symptoms of these diseases do not usually appear until about 20 to 30 years after the first exposure to asbestos.

Most people exposed to small amounts of asbestos, as we all are in our daily lives, do not develop these health problems. However, if disturbed, asbestos material may release asbestos fibers, which can be inhaled into the lungs. The fibers can remain there for a long time, increasing the risk of disease. Asbestos material that would crumble easily if handled, or that has been sawed, scraped, or sanded into a powder, is more likely to create a health hazards.

Where Can I Find Asbestos And When Can It Be A Problem?

Most products made today do not contain asbestos. Those few products made which still contain asbestos that could be inhaled are required to be labeled as such. However, until the 1970s, many types of building products and insulation materials used in homes contained asbestos. Common products that might have contained asbestos in the past, and conditions which may release fibers, include:

  • STEAM PIPES, BOILERS, and FURNACE DUCTS insulated with an asbestos blanket or asbestos paper tape. These materials may release asbestos fibers if damaged, repaired, or removed improperly.

  • RESILIENT FLOOR TILES (vinyl asbestos, asphalt, and rubber), the backing on VINYL SHEET FLOORING, and ADHESIVES used for installing floor tile. Sanding tiles can release fibers. So may scraping or sanding the backing of sheet flooring during removal.

  • CEMENT SHEET, MILLBOARD, and PAPER used as insulation around furnaces and woodburning stoves. Repairing or removing appliances may release asbestos fibers. So may cutting, tearing, sanding, drilling, or sawing insulation.

  • DOOR GASKETS in furnaces, wood stoves, and coal stoves. Worn seals can release asbestos fibers during use.

  • SOUNDPROOFING OR DECORATIVE MATERIAL sprayed on walls and ceilings. Loose, crumbly, or water-damaged material may release fibers. So will sanding, drilling, or scraping the material.

  • PATCHING AND JOINT COMPOUNDS for walls and ceilings, and TEXTURED PAINTS. Sanding, scraping, or drilling these surfaces may release asbestos.

  • ASBESTOS CEMENT ROOFING, SHINGLES, and SIDING. These products are not likely to release asbestos fibers unless sawed, drilled, or cut.

  • ARTIFICIAL ASHES AND EMBERS sold for use in gas-fired fireplaces. Also, other older household products such as FIREPROOF GLOVES, STOVE-TOP PADS, IRONING BOARD COVERS, and certain HAIRDRYERS.

  • AUTOMOBILE BRAKE PADS AND LININGS, CLUTCH FACINGS, and GASKETS.

Where Asbestos Hazards May Be Found In The Home

  • Some roofing and siding shingles are made of asbestos cement.
  • Houses built between 1930 and 1950 may have asbestos as insulation.
  • Asbestos may be present in textured paint and in patching compounds used on wall and ceiling joints. Their use was banned in 1977.
  • Artificial ashes and embers sold for use in gas-fired fireplaces may contain asbestos.
  • Older products such as stove-top pads may have some asbestos compounds.
  • Walls and floors around woodburning stoves may be protected with asbestos paper, millboard, or cement sheets.
  • Asbestos is found in some vinyl floor tiles and the backing on vinyl sheet flooring and adhesives.
  • Hot water and steam pipes in older houses may be coated with an asbestos material or covered with an asbestos blanket or tape.
  • Oil and coal furnaces and door gaskets may have asbestos insulation.

What Should Be Done About Asbestos In The Home?

If you think asbestos may be in your home, don’t panic! Usually the best thing is to leave asbestos material that is in good condition alone.

Generally, material in good condition will not release asbestos fibers.

Check material regularly if you suspect it may contain asbestos. Don’t touch it, but look for signs of wear or damage such as tears, abrasions, or water damage. Damaged material may release asbestos fibers. This is particularly true if you often disturb it by hitting, rubbing, or handling it, or if it is exposed to extreme vibration or air flow.

Sometimes the best way to deal with slightly damaged material is to limit access to the area and not touch or disturb it. Discard damaged or worn asbestos gloves, stove-top pads, or ironing board covers. Check with local health, environmental, or other appropriate officials to find out proper handling and disposal procedures.

If asbestos material is more than slightly damaged, or if you are going to make changes in your home that might disturb it, repair or removal by a professional is needed. Before you have your house remodeled, find out whether asbestos materials are present.

How To Identify Materials That Contain Asbestos

You can’t tell whether a material contains asbestos simply by looking at it, unless it is labeled. If in doubt, treat the material as if it contains asbestos or have it sampled and analyzed by a qualified professional. A professional should take samples for analysis, since a professional knows what to look for, and because there may be an increased health risk if fibers are released. In fact, if done incorrectly, sampling can be more hazardous than leaving the material alone. Taking samples yourself is not recommended. Material that is in good condition and will not be disturbed (by remodeling, for example) should be left alone. Only material that is damaged or will be disturbed should be sampled.

How To Manage An Asbestos Problem

If the asbestos material is in good shape and will not be disturbed, do nothing! If it is a problem, there are two types of corrections: repair and removal.

Repair usually involves either sealing or covering asbestos material.

Sealing (encapsulation) involves treating the material with a sealant that either binds the asbestos fibers together or coats the material so fibers are not released. Pipe, furnace, and boiler insulation can sometimes be repaired this way. This should be done only by a professional trained to handle asbestos safely.

Covering (enclosure) involves placing something over or around the material that contains asbestos to prevent release of fibers. Exposed insulated piping may be covered with a protective wrap or jacket.

With any type of repair, the asbestos remains in place. Repair is usually cheaper than removal, but it may make later removal of asbestos, if necessary, more difficult and costly. Repairs can either be major or minor.

Asbestos Do’s And Don’ts For The Homeowner

  • Do keep activities to a minimum in any areas having damaged material that may contain asbestos.
  • Do take every precaution to avoid damaging asbestos material.
  • Do have removal and major repair done by people trained and qualified in handling asbestos. It is highly recommended that sampling and minor repair also be done by asbestos professionals.
  • Don’t dust, sweep, or vacuum debris that may contain asbestos.
  • Don’t saw, sand, scrape, or drill holes in asbestos materials.
  • Don’t use abrasive pads or brushes on power strippers to strip wax from asbestos flooring. Never use a power stripper on a dry floor.
  • Don’t sand or try to level asbestos flooring or its backing. When asbestos flooring needs replacing, install new floor covering over it, if possible.
  • Don’t track material that could contain asbestos through the house. If you cannot avoid walking through the area, have it cleaned with a wet mop. If the material is from a damaged area, or if a large area must be cleaned, call an asbestos professional.

Major repairs must be done only by a professional trained in methods for safely handling asbestos.

Minor repairs should also be done by professionals since there is always a risk of exposure to fibers when asbestos is disturbed.

Doing minor repairs yourself is not recommended since improper handling of asbestos materials can create a hazard where none existed.

Removal is usually the most expensive method and, unless required by state or local regulations, should be the last option considered in most situations. This is because removal poses the greatest risk of fiber release. However, removal may be required when remodeling or making major changes to your home that will disturb asbestos material. Also, removal may be called for if asbestos material is damaged extensively and cannot be otherwise repaired. Removal is complex and must be done only by a contractor with special training. Improper removal may actually increase the health risks to you and your family.

Asbestos Professionals: Who Are They And What Can They Do?

Asbestos professionals are trained in handling asbestos material. The type of professional will depend on the type of product and what needs to be done to correct the problem. You may hire a general asbestos contractor or, in some cases, a professional trained to handle specific products containing asbestos.

Asbestos professionals can conduct home inspections, take samples of suspected material, assess its condition, and advise about what corrections are needed and who is qualified to make these corrections. Once again, material in good condition need not be sampled unless it is likely to be disturbed. Professional correction or abatement contractors repair or remove asbestos materials.

Some firms offer combinations of testing, assessment, and correction. A professional hired to assess the need for corrective action should not be connected with an asbestos-correction firm. It is better to use two different firms so there is no conflict of interest. Services vary from one area to another around the country.

The federal government has training courses for asbestos professionals around the country. Some state and local governments also have or require training or certification courses. Ask asbestos professionals to document their completion of federal or state-approved training. Each person performing work in your home should provide proof of training and licensing in asbestos work, such as completion of EPA-approved training. State and local health departments or EPA regional offices may have listings of licensed professionals in your area.

If you have a problem that requires the services of asbestos professionals, check their credentials carefully. Hire professionals who are trained, experienced, reputable, and accredited – especially if accreditation is required by state or local laws. Before hiring a professional, ask for references from previous clients. Find out if they were satisfied. Ask whether the professional has handled similar situations. Get cost estimates from several professionals, as the charges for these services can vary.

Though private homes are usually not covered by the asbestos regulations that apply to schools and public buildings, professionals should still use procedures described during federal or state-approved training. Homeowners should be alert to the chance of misleading claims by asbestos consultants and contractors. There have been reports of firms incorrectly claiming that asbestos materials in homes must be replaced. In other cases, firms have encouraged unnecessary removals or performed them improperly. Unnecessary removals are a waste of money. Improper removals may actually increase the health risks to you and your family. To guard against this, know what services are available and what procedures and precautions are needed to do the job properly.

In addition to general asbestos contractors, you may select a roofing, flooring, or plumbing contractor trained to handle asbestos when it is necessary to remove and replace roofing, flooring, siding, or asbestos-cement pipe that is part of a water system. Normally, roofing and flooring contractors are exempt from state and local licensing requirements because they do not perform any other asbestos-correction work.

Asbestos-containing automobile brake pads and linings, clutch facings, and gaskets should be repaired and replaced only by a professional using special protective equipment. Many of these products are now available without asbestos.

If You Hire A Professional Asbestos Inspector

  • Make sure that the inspection will include a complete visual examination and the careful collection and lab analysis of samples. If asbestos is present, the inspector should provide a written evaluation describing its location and extent of damage, and give recommendations for correction or prevention.
  • Make sure an inspecting firm makes frequent site visits if it is hired to assure that a contractor follows proper procedures and requirements. The inspector may recommend and perform checks after the correction to assure the area has been properly cleaned.

If You Hire A Corrective-Action Contractor

  • Check with your local air pollution control board, the local agency responsible for worker safety, and the Better Business Bureau. Ask if the firm has had any safety violations. Find out if there are legal actions filed against it.
  • Insist that the contractor use the proper equipment to do the job. The workers must wear approved respirators, gloves, and other protective clothing.
  • Before work begins, get a written contract specifying the work plan, cleanup, and the applicable federal, state, and local regulations which the contractor must follow (such as notification requirements and asbestos disposal procedures). Contact your state and local health departments, EPA’s regional office, and the Occupational Safety and Health Administration’s regional office to find out what the regulations are. Be sure the contractor follows local asbestos removal and disposal laws. At the end of the job, get written assurance from the contractor that all procedures have been followed.
  • Assure that the contractor avoids spreading or tracking asbestos dust into other areas of your home. They should seal the work area from the rest of the house using plastic sheeting and duct tape, and also turn off the heating and air conditioning system. For some repairs, such as pipe insulation removal, plastic glove bags may be adequate. They must be sealed with tape and properly disposed of when the job is complete.
  • Make sure the work site is clearly marked as a hazard area. Do not allow household members and pets into the area until work is completed.
  • Insist that the contractor apply a wetting agent to the asbestos material with a hand sprayer that creates a fine mist before removal. Wet fibers do not float in the air as easily as dry fibers and will be easier to clean up.
  • Make sure the contractor does not break removed material into small pieces. This could release asbestos fibers into the air. Pipe insulation was usually installed in preformed blocks and should be removed in complete pieces.
  • Upon completion, assure that the contractor cleans the area well with wet mops, wet rags, sponges, or HEPA (high efficiency particulate air) vacuum cleaners. A regular vacuum cleaner must never be used. Wetting helps reduce the chance of spreading asbestos fibers in the air. All asbestos materials and disposable equipment and clothing used in the job must be placed in sealed, leak- proof, and labeled plastic bags. The work site should be visually free of dust and debris. Air monitoring (to make sure there is no increase of asbestos fibers in the air) may be necessary to assure that the contractor’s job is done properly. This should be done by someone not connected with the contractor

Caution!

Do not dust, sweep, or vacuum debris that may contain asbestos. These steps will disturb tiny asbestos fibers and may release them into the air. Remove dust by wet mopping or with a special HEPA vacuum cleaner used by trained asbestos contractor.

For more information

To find out whether your state has a training and certification program for asbestos removal contractors, and for information on EPA’s asbestos programs, call the EPA at 202-554-1404.

For more information on asbestos identification and control activities, contact the Asbestos Coordinator in the EPA Regional Office for your region, or your state or local health department.

For more information on asbestos in other consumer products, call the CPSC Hotline or write to the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission, Washington, DC 20207. The CPSC Hotline has information on certain appliances and products, such as the brands and models of hair dryers that contain asbestos. Call CPSC at 1-800-638-CPSC. A teletypewriter (TTY) for the hearing impaired is available at 1-800-638-8270. The Maryland TTY number is 1-800-492-8104.

Contact your local American Lung Association: http://www.lungusa.org/site/pp.asp?cdvLUK90OE&b=22542  for copies of:

  • Indoor Air Pollution Fact Sheet – Asbestos

  • Air Pollution In Your Home?

  • Other publications on indoor pollution

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